How did it look back then?

This is a map of Lucerne from the 1881 edition of Baedekers, which at one time was the indispensable guide to European travel. I wonder what the city looked like then? How much more of a medieval or Renaissance city it resembled? How many modern buildings have been constructed in the last 129 years, in that way that old European cities have of nibbling away at their architectural heritage when they are not permitted to do away with it altogether, as in parts of Great Britain? What would the personal narrative of a person in 1881 have looked like?